Europe’s fashion industry can no longer quietly burn or dump piles of unsold clothes. As of July 19, large fashion companies across the European Union are banned from destroying unsold clothing, footwear and accessories, marking one of the bloc’s biggest moves yet to curb waste.
At first glance, the new rules seem like a European issue. But they could also have ripple effects for Morocco, a country closely tied to Europe’s textile industry both as a clothing manufacturer and as a destination for second-hand clothing imports.
The ban is part of the EU’s Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), which aims to make products more durable and reduce waste.
Instead of destroying unsold stock, companies will now have to find alternative solutions, including selling products at discounts, donating them, repairing them, reusing materials or recycling them.
Clothes can only be destroyed in limited cases, such as when they are unsafe, damaged or counterfeit. Medium-sized companies will have to comply with the same rules beginning in 2030, while small businesses remain exempt.
The change targets a surprisingly large problem. The European Commission estimates that between 4% and 9% of textiles placed on the European market are destroyed before anyone ever wears them, generating around 5.6 million tonnes of carbon dioxide emissions each year.
More clothes, but where will they go?
For Morocco, the impact could come through several channels.
One possibility is that more unsold clothes enter secondary markets instead of being destroyed.
Brands looking to clear excess inventory may increasingly rely on outlet stores, online discount platforms, donations or exports to non-EU markets. That could mean more affordable European clothing reaching Morocco, although the regulation itself does not require companies to export unsold goods.
The issue is already under debate in Europe. France has previously pushed for tighter controls on exports of used clothes, arguing that textile waste should not simply be shifted to African countries.
In 2022, the EU exported about 1.4 million tonnes of used textiles, roughly double the amount exported in 2000, raising concerns that items labeled as reusable often become waste after arrival.
Morocco is already a major destination for used clothing from Europe. According to UN Comtrade data, the EU exported tens of millions of euros worth of worn clothing and other used textiles to Morocco in recent years, making the country one of the bloc’s key North African markets.
If European brands can no longer destroy unsold inventory, some of those garments could instead be sold through discount retailers, donated or eventually find their way into second-hand export channels, although there is no obligation under the new regulation for companies to do so.
What it means for Moroccan manufacturers
The EU is also Morocco’s largest trading partner, and textiles remain one of Morocco’s leading exports to the bloc.
In 2025, EU imports of Moroccan textiles reached €2.9 billion, accounting for more than 11% of all EU imports from Morocco.
That means any shift in European fashion companies’ production strategies could eventually affect Moroccan manufacturers. If brands become more cautious about producing only what they expect to sell, suppliers could face smaller but more predictable orders.
On the other hand, companies may increasingly seek flexible, nearshore manufacturing partners like Morocco to reduce the risk of overproduction while shortening supply chains.
A changing textile landscape
The EU’s new rules illustrate a broader shift in the fashion industry away from fast production and disposal toward greater accountability for what happens to unsold products.
For Morocco, that shift presents both opportunities and challenges. The country could benefit if European brands deepen manufacturing partnerships and demand more agile production. At the same time, authorities may face growing pressure to ensure that increased flows of discounted or second-hand clothing do not fuel illegal imports that harm domestic producers.
As Europe changes how it manages unsold fashion, Morocco’s role in the global textile supply chain, and in the trade of second-hand clothing, may become increasingly important.
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