Last Updated on July 31, 2025
Fes, Morocco (also spelt Fez) — is Morocco’s oldest imperial city, but it’s often rushed as travellers focus on more popular stops like Marrakech or Chefchaouen. That’s a mistake. Fes, Morocco, offers a completely different energy: intense, layered, and raw. It’s (still) not so polished for tourists — and that’s exactly why it’s worth your time.
As a travel planner who has visited Fes many times and in different years, I always experience it as an unfiltered city that has changed little. The medina feels massive and real — not staged or curated. It’s home to over 9,000 streets, some so narrow you have to turn sideways to pass. It’s chaotic, easy to get lost in, and full of market life that still runs on a local rhythm. If you’re looking for a deeper, less touristic experience of a Moroccan medina, Fes, Morocco, is where to go.
Fes Morocco: historical importance
Fes was established in the late 8th century by Idris I, a descendant of the Prophet Muhammad, who fled to Morocco and founded the Idrisid dynasty. The mausoleum of Idris I in Fes is considered a sacred religious site and functions like a shrine (ziyarah site)—a place where Muslims come to pay respects. Only Muslims are allowed to enter the mausoleum, while non-Muslims can view the entrance from the outside (photo bellow).
Fes is one of Morocco’s four imperial cities and served as the country’s capital multiple times—first under the Idrisid dynasty around 809 AD, and later under the Marinid dynasty in the 13th century. It remained a political center until the capital eventually shifted to Rabat in the 20th century.
Fes is the second-largest city in Morocco, with a population of approximately 1.3 million people as of 2025. The city covers about 320 km². Its historic medina, called Fes el-Bali, is one of the world’s largest and oldest pedestrian-only urban areas, with over 9,000 narrow streets. This maze-like layout makes it a unique and authentic example of a traditional Moroccan medina – much larger and more easily to get lost in than in Marrakech.
The University of Al Quaraouiyine, founded in 859 AD, is located in Fes and is considered the oldest continuously operating degree-granting university in the world. For centuries, it has been a center of Islamic scholarship, culture, and education, contributing to Fes’s reputation as a historic hub of learning and religion.
How long to stay in Fez?
Fes is a beautiful but large city to explore. If you have two days, that’s the perfect amount of time to see the main sights without rushing. One day explore Medina and another day – a bit of a new town, walk in the gardens, take a cooking class or food tasting tour. One day can work, but you’ll need to move quickly. More than two days makes sense only if you want to dive deeper into the city or add extra day trips nearby.
Fes fits nicely into a 10-day Morocco itinerary, especially if you’re combining it with a desert trip or a visit to Chefchaouen. Just keep in mind that distances in Morocco are long—the drive from Marrakech to Fes takes about six to seven hours. Perfect if you are doing a desert trip from Marrakech, so in Merzouga, you take the long road directly to Fez.
How to get to Fes:
- Car: Renting a car in Morocco (I recommend www.discovercars.com) or booking a private transfer gives you flexibility but involves long drives (around 7 hours’ drive from Marrakech or the Sahara desert).
- Train: ONCF company trains (read more in my post Intercity buses and trains in Morocco. A Traveler’s Guide) connect Marrakech, Rabat, and Casablanca with Fes.
- Bus: Companies like CTM and Supratours run regular buses from Marrakech, Rabat, Casablanca, Agadir, Tangier, Chefchouen (only CTM) and other cities to Fes.
- Flight: Flying is the fastest option. Fes is served by Fes-Saïs Airport (40min drive from Medina), with direct flights from Marrakech Menara Airport (check Ryanair flights), Casablanca Mohammed V Airport (check Royalairmaroc flights), and Agadir Al Massira Airport (check Ryanair flights).
P.S. Taxis and cars are not allowed inside the Medina of Fes. If your riad is located deeper inside, you’ll need to walk from the nearest gate. Ask your riad which gate is closest for drop-off (especially for taxi drivers as they will not know most of the riads), or where to park if you’re driving. Some riads offer staff to meet and walk you in—don’t forget to tip them. At night, parts of the Medina—especially deeper inside—can be dark and uncomfortable to navigate. For my clients, I always recommend riads in convenient locations or personally arrange for someone to meet them on arrival. You can book my A to Z itinerary services to have a stress-free experience in Fez.
Fez Morocco: places to visit
FES MEDINA
1. Bou Inania & Al‑Attarine Madrasas
Built by the Marinid dynasty in the 14th century (Bou Inania: 1350–55, Attarine: 1323–25), these two religious schools are stunning examples of traditional Moroccan architecture. Bou Inania is unique among Fes madrasas for having a working mosque inside and a central fountain fed by the nearby river. While Marrakech’s Ben Youssef Madrasa is more famous, Fes’s versions are quieter and richly detailed.
2. Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts
Housed in an 18th-century caravanserai, this museum showcases traditional Fassi woodworking tools and art. Climb to the rooftop terrace for sweeping views over the medina and enjoy mint tea in a peaceful courtyard—an authentic Fes moment.
3, Dar Batha (Bahta Museum)
A former royal palace built between 1886–1907, turned museum in 1915, featuring thousands of ceramic pieces, textiles, and carved woodwork. I love its peaceful garden—it’s a calm and shaded place to walk after a busy stroll through the medina.
4, Zawiya of Moulay Idris II (Moulay Idris Shrine)
Built to honor Moulay Idris II (ruled 807–828), the spiritual founder of Fes. The current shrine dates from around 1717–19, with elaborate carved wood, stucco, and colorful mosaic tilework. Non-Muslims cannot enter, but the ornate façade and minaret are impressive to admire.
Maristan of Sidi Frej
The Maristan of Sidi Frej in Fez was the first hospital for mental and psychological illnesses in the world. It was also one of the oldest multi-specialty hospitals. Built in the 13th century by the Marinids, it functioned until the 20th century. You can’t go inside today as the original building is gone. A funduq with small shops stands in its place. You can still see the hospital sign from the outside.
The building is between Tala’a Kebira and the Zawiya of Moulay Idris II, it opens onto a quiet square with trees and this used to be the henna market (Souq el-Henna). Even though can look like nothing special, I liked the atmosphere here, in this little cozy square.
Medina Sights & Souks
Dar al-Magana (Water Clock)
Located across from Bou Inania Madrasa on Tala’a Kebira, this 14th-century hydraulic clock was completed in May 1357, designed to mark prayer times with a series of 12 or 13 brass bowls and wooden doors. The mechanism no longer works, but the façade and wooden beams (now restored) still fascinate. You can only view it from the outside.
Chouara Tannery – the Oldest Leather Tannery in Fes, Morocco
The Chouara Tannery is one of the most iconic places to visit in Fes, Morocco. Dating back to the 11th century, it is the largest and oldest tannery in the city and still operates using traditional techniques. Located deep in the Medina, Chouara is instantly recognizable by its large stone vats filled with natural dyes and soaking agents used to process animal hides into leather. The process is entirely natural and hasn’t changed for centuries. Animal skins are first soaked in a mixture of water, quicklime, and pigeon droppings—an effective natural source of ammonia. Visiting the tannery is free, but it’s accessed through surrounding leather shops, which offer rooftop terraces overlooking the vats. Often, a shop worker or local guide will greet you at the door, offer a sprig of mint to mask the intense smell, and explain the leather-making process. While there’s no obligation to purchase anything, tipping the person who guides you is appreciated. While Chouara is the most famous tannery in the city, there are also smaller ones like Sidi Moussa and Ain Azliten, which offer a quieter, less crowded experience.
Bab Boujloud (Blue Gate)
The photogenic western entrance to Fes el-Bali, with blue and green tilework. A well-known meeting point and ideal place to start your exploration of the medina.
Medina Souks & Narrow Streets
Fes el-Bali contains over 9,000 narrow alleys—mostly car-free and easily maze-like. Souk Seffarine (coppersmiths) is a highlight, where the rhythmic hammering creates an unforgettable soundtrack to the medina.
Ville Nouvelle (New Town)
Avenue Hassan II & Colonial Squares
Built during the French Protectorate (from 1912 onward), this wide boulevard is lined with cafés, shops, and mixes Art Deco and neo‑Moorish architecture. Key public spaces include Place de la Résistance, Place Florence, and Place Ahmad El Mansour.
Museum of Arms (Borj Nord)
Housed inside a 16th-century Portuguese-style fortress, the museum opened in 1963 and displays a major collection of Moroccan and medieval weapons. If you have a car or don’t mind a taxi ride just outside the medina walls, it’s worth the visit for history and panoramic city views.
Royal Palace Gates (Dar el-Makhzen)
The grand golden gates built during Sultan Hassan I’s late 19th-century reign are visible from outside—worth a photo stop and symbolizing Fes’s ongoing status within the kingdom.
Jnan Sbil Gardens
Created in the 18th century and restored in 2011, these public gardens cover around 7.5 hectares of greenery, fountains, shaded paths, and water wheels. A peaceful contrast to the medina’s bustle.
Art D’Argile
Art D’Argile is a pottery and mosaic workshop located just outside the Medina, not inside the touristy core. It’s a great place to watch skilled artisans handcraft traditional Moroccan ceramics and colorful zellige tiles using high-quality clay. While it’s also a shop where you can buy these beautiful pieces, the real highlight is seeing the craftsmen at work. If you’re interested in Moroccan artisan culture beyond the usual Medina markets, Art D’Argile offers an authentic glimpse into this age-old craft.
Where to Stay in Fes, Morocco
Fes has many traditional riads—Moroccan guesthouses often hidden inside the Medina. These riads usually have large courtyards, colorful tiles, and very detailed decor. For my personal taste, they can feel a bit overwhelming—like sleeping in a 1001 Nights palace—so if you prefer minimal design, it’s harder to find here compared to Marrakesh.
If you’re coming with a car, always check how far the riad is from the nearest road or parking. Some are deep in the Medina and hard to reach without GPS. I recommend staying near the Blue Gate or in the Batha area—both are quieter, easier to access, and still central. You can also stay in the New Town if you prefer modern hotels and direct road access.
Day Trips from Fes
Fes is a perfect base to explore northern Morocco’s rich history and culture. Just 40 minutes away by train or car is Meknes, an imperial city known for its grand gates and royal architecture. From Meknes, you can take a short taxi ride to Volubilis, a well-preserved Roman archaeological site dating back to the 3rd century AD. Nearby is Moulay Idriss Zerhoun, a sacred town that until recently did not allow Muslims to stay overnight. It’s a beautiful and authentic village, rich in spiritual history.
On the other side of Fes is Sefrou, about 30 minutes away, famous for its waterfalls, artisan crafts, and the annual Cherry Festival. Close to Sefrou is Bhalil, a charming village known for its unique cave houses and pottery workshops. About 3.5 hours from Fes lies Chefchaouen, the blue city, highly recommended for an overnight stay because of its relaxed atmosphere and stunning mountain views.
Closer to Fes, Vichy Park offers a local spa and wellness experience inspired by French thermal baths—a nice option if you want a quiet day without leaving the city.
Where to Eat in Fes, Morocco
There are many places to eat in Fes, but here are a few suggestions to get you started. Café Clock is popular and has locations in Fes, Chefchaouen, and Marrakech, with a nice rooftop in each city. Another great spot is The Ruined Garden or Café Fez, both offering good food and a selection of wines. These places are well known, especially since they are located inside the Medina.
For something different with really great food, check out Fondouk Bazar. Besides these, the Medina streets are full of local spots worth trying for a more authentic taste. I love little more hiden restarant with garden inside iragnger tagines.
If you want amazing views, head to rooftops like Palais Armani for a fancier dinner experience. Outside the city, near Jebel Gardens, Mezzanine is a simple place to have a drink, often with live music, popular among locals and visitors alike.
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